清代宫廷服饰中的紫色气象  

Symbolism of Purple in Qing Dynasty Imperial Court Costume

作　　者：章新[1] ZHANG XIN(Court History Department,The Palace Museum,Beijing 100009,China)

机构地区：[1]故宫博物院宫廷历史部,北京100009

出　　处：《服装学报》2025年第1期86-94,共9页Journal of Clothing Research

摘　　要：“紫”在清代宫廷服饰中是引人注目的色系,其在黄、青、红、蓝4类清代重要服饰色系外,别开生面地展现出一派富贵娇艳的色彩。立足清宫旧藏服饰文物,参照宫廷画卷,对应清代宫廷文献与档案,兼之古人笔记、字典、书谱等,通过文献梳理与实物分析,对清代服饰中的紫色展开研究。在明确区分清宫紫色系服饰,厘清名物对应关系的基础上,揭示了清代服色承袭了中华古代政治传统和色尚文化,并结合现实选择,构建相关理论体系。服饰中的紫色演绎着近代染织史经历的工艺与审美流变,以及由传统而趋现代的流行色历史,认清和把握宫廷紫系色彩的理念、结构和脉络,对了解清代政治礼制、染织工艺以及不同时期审美趣味的民俗风尚变化都提供了更丰富的维度。The "purple" color system is outstanding in the court costumes of the Qing Dynasty. Besides the four primary color systems-yellow, blue, red and green-purple emerged as a symbol of dignity and beauty, capturing significant attention. Based on clothing relics housed in the Palace Museum, supplemented by references to Qing Dynasty palace paintings, archival documents, ancient notes, dictionaries, and historical texts, this paper examines the use of purple in Qing Dynasty clothing through a combination of literature review and material analysis. Based on a clear distinction of the corresponding relationships between the names and objects of purple-colored costumes, this paper reveals that the Qing Dynasty clothing color not only inherited the ancient Chinese political tradition and color culture but also combined with the reality to select and build its own system. The purple color in clothing reflects the technological and aesthetic changes experienced in the history of modern dyeing and weaving, as well as the evolution of popular colors from traditional to modern times. A clear understanding and grasp of the concept, structure and context of court purple color provides us with a richer dimension to understand the changes of political etiquette, dyeing and weaving technology and aesthetic taste during the Qing Dynasty.

关 键 词：清代 宫廷服饰 紫 酱色 藕荷 玫瑰紫 茄紫 雪青 青莲 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]