帽上著笼冠——褚緭《戏为诗》视角下的北魏服饰汉化改革  

Wearing a Cage Crown on a Cap:The Sinicization Reform of Northern Wei Costumes from the Perspective of Chu Wei's Xi Wei Poetry

作　　者：张沐旸 王亚蓉[2] 高丹丹 Zhang Muyang;Wang Yarong;Gao Dandan

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院 [2]中国社会科学院考古研究所 [3]北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆

出　　处：《南方文物》2025年第1期221-231,共11页Cultural Relics in Southern China

基　　金：北京服装学院服务国家特殊需求“中国传统服饰文化抢救传承与设计创新”博士人才培养项目;教育部人文社会科学青年基金项目(项目编号:23YJC760026);北京市属高校分类发展-北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(项目编号:11000024T000003073871)。

摘　　要：自孝文帝汉化改革后,汉式服装便取代传统的垂裙帽与紧窄袴褶成为北魏社会的主流穿着。然而,南梁士人褚緭却作诗讥讽魏人礼服“帽上著笼冠,袴上著朱衣”,认为其搭配古今错乱,是非颠倒。褚緭诗中描述的朱衣袴褶在陶俑中十分常见,但帽与笼冠的搭配却尚未发现。通过文献图像资料与实验考古学的方法,本文对褚緭诗中描述的搭配笼冠之帽进行研究,推测这一帽式极有可能是孝文帝改革后受汉服影响而小冠化的鲜卑帽。这也表明即使在孝文帝严格的政令下,鲜卑衣冠也并未完全被禁绝,而是受汉服影响发展出独特的形式,体现了北朝时期胡汉文化交融的时代特色。After Emperor Xiaowen's sinicization reform,Han style clothing replaced traditional tight and narrow Xianbei clothing as the mainstream attire in Northern Wei society.However,Chu Wei,a scholar of the Southern Liang Dynasty,wrote a poem mocking the Wei people's formal attire as"wearing a cage crown on a cap and a red robe on trousers",believing that its combination confuses the habits of ancient and modern times,neither fish nor fowl.The combination of red robe on trousers described in Chu Wei's poetry are very common in pottery figurines,but the combination of a cage crown on a cap has not yet been discovered.With literature,image data,and experimental archaeology methods,this study investigates the cap style described in Chu Wei's poetry,which features a crown.It is speculated that this cap style is highly likely to be a Xianbei hat that was reduced in size due to the influence of Hanfu after Emperor Xiaowen's reform.This also indicates that even under the strict orders of Emperor Xiaowen,Xianbei clothing was not completely banned,but developed unique forms influenced by Hanfu,reflecting the characteristics of the fusion of Hu and Han cultures during the Northern Dynasties period.

关 键 词：北魏 孝文帝改革 鲜卑帽 笼冠 汉化 

分 类 号：K239.21[历史地理—历史学] TS941.12[历史地理—中国史]