云南文山彝族倮支系女子上衣结构研究  

Structure of women's upper garments of the Luo branch of the Yi ethnic group in Wenshan,Yunnan

作　　者：赵佳音 王羿[1] ZHAO Jiayin;WANG Yi(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2025年第2期107-115,共9页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：教育部哲学社会科学研究重大课题攻关项目(21JZD048)。

摘　　要：为了进一步挖掘云南文山彝族倮支系服饰中蕴含的传统服饰文化信息,通过对文山彝族倮支系女子服饰样本进行信息采集、测绘和结构图复原,并运用多重证据法和比较研究法,梳理了文山彝族倮支系女子服饰的配伍与结构特征。研究表明:文山各县地的彝族倮支系女子服饰在造型与风格等方面存在明显的差异,具有“辨族别异”的符号化功能;且该支系女子上衣结构均以“十字平面”裁剪为核心,衣身松量在自然环境和稻作文化影响下,始终处于我国南方民族的紧袖窄衣和北方民族宽袍大袖的中间状态,其衣身结构承载了中华民族悠久稳定的文化基因;此外,圆领、交领、直袖的上衣款式是彝人对华夏服饰文化元素的承袭与认同,具有民族文化价值观的深层意义。To further explore the traditional cultural information contained in the costumes of the Luo branch of the Yi ethnic group in Wenshan,Yunnan,information collection,surveying,mapping,and structural diagram restoration were conducted on women's costume samples through multiple evidence method and comparative research methods.The matching and structural characteristics of these costumes were systematically analyzed.The results show significant differences in form and style of women's costumes of the Luo branch across Wenshan counties,demonstrating symbolic functions for ethnic identification.All upper garment structures are all centered on the'cross-shaped plane'cutting technique.Influenced by natural environment and rice-farming culture,the garment ease is maintained in an intermediate state between the tight-sleeved narrow clothing of southern ethnic groups and the loose wide-sleeved robes of northern ethnic groups,which carries the enduring cultural genes of Chinese civilization.Furthermore,the round-collar,cross-collar and straight-sleeved styles are identified as the Yi people's inheritance and recognition of Chinese clothing cultural elements,reflecting profound cultural values of ethnic identity.

关 键 词：文山彝族 倮支系 女子上衣结构 民族文化 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]