(亻革)家人传统服饰形象中的阴阳设计研究  

Study on Yin-Yang Design in Ge Jia Traditional Dress Image

作　　者：刘田田 袁妍 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江 杭州

出　　处：《Design（汉斯）》2023年第4期3593-3603,共11页设计（汉斯）

摘　　要：亻革家人是贵州省黄平地区的世居族群,在其漫长的发展历程中,文化与族群管理分立两支的阴阳两系社会结构对亻革家人的思想与审美意识造成了巨大的影响,从设计上看便形成了对立与调和共续的阴阳相恒的外在表现。本文以亻革家最具代表性的女子盛装服饰为研究对象,从样式、色彩、图案、工艺、功能等方面追溯梳理了亻革家人传统服饰中的阴阳文化脉络,结合中华传统阴阳美学思分析其特有的设计风格。研究发现:亻革家人传统盛装的服装制式、色彩设计和纹样题材均呈现出二元对立统一的特征,其形成与亻革家的阴阳族系文化、思想崇拜密切相关,呈现出典型的阴阳设计理念。在他们服装的演化过程中遵循阴阳交融、多元合一的传承特征,形成了独特的阴阳美学理念。该研究通过探讨亻革家传统服饰中的阴阳设计表现,深化对其形态特点和审美意识的理解与认知,寻找亻革家服饰阴阳设计的来源与方法,来为其传承发展提供新的思路。The Ge Jia are the resident ethnic group in Huangping area of Guizhou Province. In its long development course, the Yin-Yang social structure of separate culture and ethnic group management has exerted a great influence on the ideology and aesthetic consciousness of the Ge Jia. From the design point of view, it forms the external manifestation of opposites and harmony. This paper takes the most representative female dress of your family as the study object, retro-spects the Yin and Yang culture context of your family’s traditional dress from the aspects of style, color, pattern, craft and function, and analyzes its unique design style combined with the traditional Chinese Yin and Yang aesthetic thought. The study found that the traditional dress style, color design and pattern subject matter of your family are the characteristics of the unity of binary opposites, which is closely related to the Yin-Yang culture and ideological worship of your family, presenting a typical Yin-Yang design concept. In the evolution process of their clothing, they follow the inheritance characteristics of Yin and Yang integration, and form a unique aesthetic concept of Yin and Yang. The study explored the yin-yang design performance of traditional dress of the traditional dress, deepened the understanding and cognition of its morphological characteristics and aesthetic consciousness, and sought the source and method of Yin-Yang design of the traditional dress of the traditional dress of the traditional dress to provide new ideas for its inheritance and development.

关 键 词：亻革家人 民族形象 服饰设计 阴阳和合 

分 类 号：TS9[轻工技术与工程]