八都麻绣的古越遗风及其服饰图案情感意蕴探究与服饰设计应用  

Exploration of the Ancient Yue Legacy of Badu Ma Embroidery and the Emotional Connotation of Its Costume Patterns and Its Application in Costume Design

作　　者：李宇杰 吕昉[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江 杭州

出　　处：《Design（汉斯）》2024年第1期861-873,共13页设计（汉斯）

摘　　要：八都麻绣是源自春秋战国时期,在淳安八都一带流传至今的传统刺绣技艺,其以麻为原料,将其捻制成麻线,并在麻布上绣出各种精美图案,其独特的工艺纹样和本色或青色的颜色颇具特色,目前已被列入浙江省非物质文化遗产保护名录,受到关注和保护。本文探求其与古越族的联系,并从艺术人类学角度的视角出发,主要结合实物实证研究、与县级八都麻绣的非物质文化遗产代表性传承人访谈和田野调查的手段,以此探索绣品中含有的情感意蕴并进行应用设计。Badu Ma Embroidery is a traditional embroidery technique that originated in the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods and has been passed down to this day in the Badu area of Chun’an. It uses hemp as raw material, twists it into hemp thread, and embroiders various exquisite patterns on hemp cloth. Its unique craftsmanship patterns and natural or blue colors are quite distinctive, and it has been listed in the list of intangible cultural heritage protection in Zhejiang Province, receiving attention and protection. This article explores its connection with the ancient Yue ethnic group, and from the perspective of art anthropology, mainly combines physical empirical research, interviews with representative inheritors of intangible cultural heritage of Ma embroidery in Badu County, and field investigations to explore the emotional connotations contained in embroidery and design its application.

关 键 词：八都麻绣 艺术人类学 工艺纹样 古越族 情感意蕴 

分 类 号：G63[文化科学—教育学]