The Effect of a Novel Complex, Composed of Ceramide, Energizing Peptide and Camu Camu Extract, on Epidermal Barrier Function and Dermal Antiaging Properties in Ex Vivo Human Skin Small Live Cohort  

作　　者：Landau Marina Landau-Blum Shir Samuel Kassirer Audrey Le Mestr Armelle Perrin Julien Verdon Laurine Bergeron Corinne Morel Isabelle Imbert Landau Marina;Landau-Blum Shir;Samuel Kassirer;Audrey Le Mestr;Armelle Perrin;Julien Verdon;Laurine Bergeron;Corinne Morel;Isabelle Imbert(Arena Dermatology, Herzliya, Israel;American Medical Program, Tel Aviv University, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel;Ashland, Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Sophia Antipolis, France)

机构地区：[1]Arena Dermatology, Herzliya, Israel [2]American Medical Program, Tel Aviv University, Tel Aviv-Yafo, Israel [3]Ashland, Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Sophia Antipolis, France

出　　处：《Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications》2024年第1期1-11,共11页化妆品、皮肤病及应用期刊（英文）

摘　　要：The skin’s primary function is to protect the body against a spectrum of environmental stressors, including mechanical insults, microorganisms, chemicals, and allergens. Located in the outermost layers, the primary structures and components responsible for the skin’s barrier function are susceptible to environmental variables, dermatological conditions, and the aging process. The ensuing alterations to structure, composition, and organizational attributes of the epidermal barrier can impact its integrity and functionality. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of a novel complex composed of a ceramide, energizing peptide, and Camu Camu extract (SUPCERAT^TM complex) on specific markers of epidermal barrier integrity, as well as epidermal and dermal function. All the experiments were conducted on fresh human abdominal skin explants. Intradermal production of hyaluronic acid, epidermal claudin-1, and ceramide synthase 3 expressions, as well as epidermal lipids content were assessed using specific fluorescent stainings on ex vivo skin after the application of the complex or placebo. Additionally, dermal elastase and collagenase activities were assessed using in tubo enzymatic assays. Lastly, the effect of a cosmetic cream containing SUPCERAT^TM complex was assessed using subjective Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) in a small cohort of patients after 60 days of use. The application of the SUPCERAT^TM complex on ex vivo skin led to significant increase in dermal hyaluronic acid content and epidermal activity of claudin-1, ceramide synthase 3 and epidermal ceramide content. Furthermore, in tubo enzymatic assays demonstrated inhibition of both dermal elastase and collagenase activities. In addition, the patient-reported results indicated significant improvements in skin quality and appearance. .The skin’s primary function is to protect the body against a spectrum of environmental stressors, including mechanical insults, microorganisms, chemicals, and allergens. Located in the outermost layers, the primary structures and components responsible for the skin’s barrier function are susceptible to environmental variables, dermatological conditions, and the aging process. The ensuing alterations to structure, composition, and organizational attributes of the epidermal barrier can impact its integrity and functionality. The aim of this study was to assess the effect of a novel complex composed of a ceramide, energizing peptide, and Camu Camu extract (SUPCERAT^TM complex) on specific markers of epidermal barrier integrity, as well as epidermal and dermal function. All the experiments were conducted on fresh human abdominal skin explants. Intradermal production of hyaluronic acid, epidermal claudin-1, and ceramide synthase 3 expressions, as well as epidermal lipids content were assessed using specific fluorescent stainings on ex vivo skin after the application of the complex or placebo. Additionally, dermal elastase and collagenase activities were assessed using in tubo enzymatic assays. Lastly, the effect of a cosmetic cream containing SUPCERAT^TM complex was assessed using subjective Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS) in a small cohort of patients after 60 days of use. The application of the SUPCERAT^TM complex on ex vivo skin led to significant increase in dermal hyaluronic acid content and epidermal activity of claudin-1, ceramide synthase 3 and epidermal ceramide content. Furthermore, in tubo enzymatic assays demonstrated inhibition of both dermal elastase and collagenase activities. In addition, the patient-reported results indicated significant improvements in skin quality and appearance. .

关 键 词：SUPCERATTM Complex Epidermal Skin Barrier Moisturization ANTIAGING CERAMIDE Camu Camu Extract 

分 类 号：O62[理学—有机化学]