This work is financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.49676277);863-818 Project(05-02)
A joint probability density function (PDF) for surface slopes in two arbitrary directions is derived on the basis of Longuet Higgins's linear model for three-dimensionol (3-D) random wave field. and the correlation mo...
This work is financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.49676277)
The intertidal flats are classified as 'attached bar', 'spit' and 'isolated bar' in relation to the land, and 'broad flat', 'sharp bank' and 'eroded cliff' according to the shape of the cross-shore profile. Tidal curr...
National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49676277)
In Light of the analysis of the physical implication and underlying assumption of the bandwidth parameter epsilon of wave spectrum, a time-averaging method is used to evaluate epsilon of the JONSWAP spectrum for diffe...
National Natural Foundation of China.(No.49676277)
A joint probability density is derived for wavelengths and wave heights. It is asymmetric and depends only on the spectral bandwidth epsilon defined by Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins (1956). After that a theoretical p...