《北行日录》反映的宋金饮食文化交融——兼论中华民族文化交融的规律  

Observing Food Culture Fusion of Song and Jin Dynasty with A Diary of My Journey to the North: On the Regularities of Chinese Nation’s Cultural Blending

作　　者：杨军[1,2] YANG Jun(Jilin University)

机构地区：[1]吉林大学历史研究院,长春130012 [2]吉林大学文学院中国史系,长春130012

出　　处：《中华民族共同体研究》2022年第4期125-136,173-174,共14页Journal of the Chinese Nation Studies

摘　　要：楼钥《北行日录》所载金朝招待宋使的宴会反映出,北宋旧都开封一带,在进入金朝以后饮食文化发生明显的变化,当地汉族传统食品往往名称、形制、制作工艺、制作流程依旧,但使用的食材却加入了女真饮食文化元素,或改用北方特色的食材,或变换食材进行新的搭配。女真族特色食品也已发生明显变化,加入了适合宋人口味的食材与调料。宋金饮食文化的交流反映出,本民族文化的食品传入其他民族文化之后,往往在保存名称、形式的前提下,对直接影响口味嗜好的食材、配料、调味品等进行适应其他民族文化的调整,改造之后的食品被其他民族文化视为由本民族文化引进的新事物加以接受,在其他民族文化中传播之后,再回传本民族文化,这种传播、调整、流行、回传的过程往往是双向同时进行的。两种文化的水乳交融造就了新的传统、新的主流文化。According to the records of the banquet hosted by the Jin dynasty for Song envoys in the“A Diary of My Journey to the North(北行日录)”by Lou Yao(1137-1213),a Chinese litterateur of Southern Song dynasty,food culture in the surrounding area of Kaifeng,the old capital of Northern Song dynasty,changed significantly within the realm of Jin dynasty.Although local traditional Han food remained unchanged in ways of name,shape,and production process,the ingredients were mixed with Jurchen food culture elements,either by swapping traditional ingredients for ingredients of northern specialties or by using different ingredients for new combinations.Food of Jurchen specialties also changed significantly,by using ingredients,condiments and spices that suits the taste of Song people.The exchange between Song and Jin food culture shows that,when food from a culture is introduced into a heteroculture,its original name and shape will often be kept,and adjustments will be made to adapt this food to the heteroculture on aspects that directly affect its taste and flavoring style,including ingredients,condiments and spices;after being adjusted and adapted,this food will be accepted as new items introduced from a culture to its heteroculture;after being spread around and prevailing in the heteroculture,this food will be introduced back into its original culture.This process of introduction,adaptation,prevalence,and re-introduction often happens simultaneously in both directions.The fusion and integration of two cultures will give birth to new traditions and a new mainstream culture.

关 键 词：《北行日录》 饮食文化 宋朝金朝 交融 规律 

分 类 号：TS971[轻工技术与工程] K244[历史地理—历史学] K246.4[历史地理—中国史]