跨地方饮食文化生产的过程研究──基于符号化的原真性视角  

Research on process to translocal restaurants' culture production:Based on the perspective of symbolization of authenticity

作　　者：曾国军[1] 刘梅[1] 刘博[2] 蔡晓梅[2] 

机构地区：[1]中山大学旅游学院,广州510275 [2]华南师范大学文化产业与文化地理研究中心,广州510631

出　　处：《地理研究》2013年第12期2366-2376,共11页Geographical Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(41201140;41201137;41301140)

摘　　要：全球化是去地方化,抑或在全新体系中定义新的地方性、凸显地方性,学术界对此一直存在争论。伴随全球化进程,地方性饮食追逐人口流动跨地方扩展,这些跨地方饮食在保持文化原真性和适应本地顾客需求方面挣扎。如何保持原真性,保持何种原真性成为跨地方饮食文化生产的焦点。本文通过对地方性与跨地方、原真性与符号化的相关研究进行梳理,基于饮食文化原真性的理论分析,揭示了"原真性的符号化"这一跨地方饮食文化生产的重要过程。与此同时,还阐述了在跨地方饮食文化生产过程中,原真性符号化的必然性及其循环过程,旨在为跨地方饮食文化生产提供理论依据和实践指引,同时也有利于理解地方性文化的跨地方传播、创新与发展。There has been a dispute in academia as to whether globalization is the displacement of locality, or the process of redefinition, reproduction and highlighting of locality. Against the background of globalization, previously local food travels translocally with the frequent migration of people. Translocal restaurants strive to keep authenticity and meet the demands of non-local customers. The focus of translocal restaurants＇ culture production lies in how to keep authenticity, and what kind of authenticity to achieve. This study reviews the literature of locality, translocality, authenticity and symbolization. Based on a theoretically informed analysis of authenticity of restaurants＇ culture, this paper attempts to reveal an important process of translocal restaurants＇ culture production： symbolization of authenticity. In this study, authenticity refers to the characteristics of restaurants＇ culture perceived by customers, which is investigated from a constructive authenticity view. Symbolization is the process of transforming objects into symbols. Symbolized objects are easier to be recognized. Symbolization of authenticity is the realization process of authenticity imprinted by a number of clues, such as food, service, decoration and atmosphere. Translocal restaurants actualize culture production through the symbolization of authenticity. Meanwhile, this study demonstrates the necessity of the symbolization of authenticity and its circular process. It can provide a theoretical and practical basis for culture production of translocal restaurants, as well as to understand the diffusion, innovation, and development of food culture.

关 键 词：原真性 符号化 跨地方 饮食地理 

分 类 号：TS971[轻工技术与工程]