汉唐刺绣的生产和消费  

Production and Consumption of Embroideries in the Han and Tang Dynasties

作　　者：邝杨华[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《丝绸》2015年第6期68-73,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划课题资助项目(2013BAH58F01);江苏省社会科学基金项目(14LSC002);江南大学自主科研计划-青年基金项目(JUSRP11469)

摘　　要：从生产和消费两个角度对汉唐文献关于刺绣的记载进行梳理,讨论汉唐刺绣的生产方式、消费主体、消费形式及与刺绣消费相关的法令等问题。汉唐刺绣主要有官营生产和家庭生产两种方式,皇室、贵族和官员是刺绣主要的消费群体,南北朝以后,随着佛教的盛行,寺庙也成为刺绣庞大的消费群体。汉唐刺绣常见服用、室内用、出行用和礼佛用四种类型,此外还承担馈赠、赏赐甚至外交等社会功能。刺绣是汉唐期间多个历史时期崇俭禁奢的主题,统治者虽屡次颁布禁绣令,然终究令不久行,难见成效。This paper settles embroidery records from literatures in Han and Tang dynasties from two perspectives （production and consumption） , discusses the production mode, consumption subject, consumption form and decrees about embroidery consumption. Embroideries in the Han and Tang dynasties mainly included two modes： state-run production and household production. Royals, nobles and officials were major consumers. After the Northern and Southern dynasties, with the prevalence of Buddhism, temples also became a huge consumer group. Generally, embroideries were used as decoration, for instance, on clothing, in houses, travelling or paying respect for Buddha. Sometimes, they were also used as gifts. During this period, embroidery was the theme of advocating frugalness and banning extravagance. Emperors constantly issued decrees to prohibit embroidering, but the efforts were usually in vain.

关 键 词：刺绣 生产 消费 汉唐 禁绣 

分 类 号：TS935.1[轻工技术与工程] K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]