从潘金莲的服饰看晚明世风  

The Late Ming Social Atmosphere Revealed by Costume of Pan Jinlian

作　　者：陈芳[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院

出　　处：《清华大学学报（哲学社会科学版）》2015年第5期80-90,197,共11页Journal of Tsinghua University(Philosophy and Social Sciences)

摘　　要：《金瓶梅》是中国历史上第一部再现市井生活的写实长卷,提供了诸多物质文化史的丰富材料,尤其是大量的服饰描写,不仅呈现了当时的服饰时尚状况,而且映射出其时的社会风气。以《金瓶梅》中潘金莲的服饰为例,透过潘金莲服饰的形制、质料、色彩以及数量等方面的内容,可以管窥晚明的世风,主要包括三个方面:一是晚明纵欲风气下的女性自觉;二是晚明才女文化的兴盛及其对女子品评标准的转向;三是商品经济的繁荣导致女性经济的相对独立。诚然,这三方面的内容不能涵括晚明世风的全部,但从潘金莲的服饰出发而观察到的晚明世风的情形,也从某种角度彰显了服饰与社会的密切关系。The Golden Lotus was the first work narrating the everyday folk life in Chinese history,which provides rich information for the research of material culture history. In particular the large amount of descriptions regarding costume does not only depict the fashion of the time,but also reflect its contemporary social atmosphere. This article focuses on the case of Pan Jinlian,a main character of the Jin Ping Mei,which reveals three aspects of the social atmosphere of the late Ming through Pan Jinlian's costume: first,the self-awareness of women with the atmosphere of indulgence in the later Ming. Second,the talented women trend in the late Ming and its impact over the criteria judging a woman. Third,the relative independence of women resulting from the prosperous of the commodity economy. Although these three aspects did not represent the whole picture of the later Ming social atmosphere,the investigation of Ming social atmosphere through the study of costume of Pan Jinlian demonstrates the close relationship between the apparel and the society.

关 键 词：潘金莲 服饰 晚明 女性自觉 才女文化 经济独立 

分 类 号：I207.419[文学—中国文学]