《瑶台步月图》女性冠饰考  

A Study on Female Headdresses of Yao Tai Bu Yue Tu

作　　者：王惠莹[1] 陈芳[1] Wang Huiying Chen Fang

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2016年第4期42-45,共4页Art & Design Research

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目<传统服饰中的中国元素及创新设计研究>(项目号:ZXKY03140409);北京市教委长城学者培养计划项目(项目号:CIT&TCD 20150307)的阶段性成果

摘　　要：目前,学界将《瑶台步月图》中三位女子的头饰定名为"团冠",笔者存疑,通过对画作的细致观察,并与有准确文献定名的"团冠"、"山口"对比研究,确认此冠饰与"团冠"不同。通过图像梳理发现,相同或相似冠饰主要在南宋和元代流行,结合服饰等其他材料,更加明确断定《瑶台步月图》为南宋的作品。最后,笔者推测此种冠饰造型可能来源于河蚌,并且有其丰富的隐喻含义。The headdresses of the three female in Yao Tai Bu Yue Tu are defined as Tuan Guan currently in academic circle. However, the author suggests that they are different from Tuan Guan through the carefully observation of the painting and the comparison with Tuan Guan or Shan Kou literally. The same or similar headdresses were popular in the Southern Song Dynasty and the Yuan Dynasty. What＇s more, Yao Tai Bu Yue Tu can be concluded as the painting of the Southern Song Dynasty with the research of costume and other materials. Last, the author speculates that this kind of headdresses might come from swan mussel and posses meaningful metaphor.

关 键 词：《瑶台步月图》 冠饰 “团冠” 山口 隐喻 

分 类 号：J18[艺术—艺术理论] J523