饮食类非物质文化遗产的“嵌入式”传承与精品化发展--以云南过桥米线为例  

Development of High-class Products and Embedded Inheritance of Intangible Cultural Heritage in the Field of Food——a case study based on Across-the-bridge Rice Noodles of Yunnan

作　　者：程小敏[1,2] 于干千[2] CHENG Xiaomin YU Ganqian

机构地区：[1]华中师范大学国家文化产业研究中心 [2]普洱学院

出　　处：《思想战线》2017年第5期162-172,共11页Thinking

基　　金：云南省哲学社会科学创新团队“云南餐饮产业转型升级与饮食文化研究”阶段性成果(2014CXP03);云南省教育厅科研项目“非遗视角下饮食文化申遗实践及保护模式研究”阶段性成果(2014Y511);华中师范大学优秀博士学位论文培育资助项目“现代化进程下中国传统饮食文化传承发展的路径研究”阶段性成果(2017YBZZ087)

摘　　要：在传统与现代的纠葛中,基于参与主体的理解和诉求,人们对饮食文化进行着多维解读,其中"遗产化"成为饮食文化应对全球化挑战最聚焦的一种解读。过桥米线作为在传承农耕文明、体现云南民族文化多样性、承载族群集体记忆方面具有独特意义的饮食类非物质文化遗产,面对"遗产化"的多目标博弈和现代化的转型,其在日常生活、经济生活、精神世界以及民族交融中的生发状态,不仅以味觉记忆和文化认同强化了饮食文化"嵌入"式传承的内在规律,而且面对"地方性"与"真实性"的难题,提出了饮食文化在当下传承发展的创新要求。因此,以实现传统饮食文化多元价值创造性转化为目标的精品化思路成为题中应有之义,创意化重构和体验化提升,成为精品化思路下饮食类非物质文化遗产传承发展的新探索。In the entanglements between tradition and modernity, multiple interpretations have been made on food culture in response to the challenge of globalization based on the understanding of the participants and their different interest demands. Of the interpretations, heritabilization has become the one that gets the most attention. As an intangible heritage in food culture, Across-the bridge Rice Noodles has special significance in inheriting farming civilization, demonstrating the diversity of Yunnan ethnic culture and bearing the collective memory of people. In the context of multi-objective game of heritabilization and transition to modernity, its development in daily life, economic activities, spiritual world and national blending has not only strengthened the internal rules of the ＂ embedded＂ mode of inheritance of food culture with characteristic taste memory and cultural identity but also put forward, in the dilemmas of authenticity and locality, the demand for innovation in inheritance and development of food culture. Thus, it is imperative to develop high-class products to diversify the value of traditional food culture in a creative way. As an exploratory effort, creative reconstruction and experience promotion can be used to put the high-class development strategy into practice.

关 键 词：过桥米线 非物质文化遗产 饮食文化 “嵌入式” 精品化 

分 类 号：G112[文化科学]