贾而好儒:明中期商人服饰中的“尚儒”现象  

Study on the"Confucian"Phenomenon in the Clothing of Merchants in the Middle Ming Dynasty

作　　者：牛天越 吕少卿[2] 

机构地区：[1]清华大学美术学院 [2]南京艺术学院研究生处

出　　处：《创意与设计》2022年第6期92-97,共6页Creation and Design

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学重大项目(21ZD23)。

摘　　要：明初,政府对服饰的款式、颜色、面料及其使用颁布了严格的法令,希望通过服饰来明晰社会阶级,明中期以来,商品经济的快速发展,为服饰的丰富与发展奠定了物质基础,政府对于服饰的管控也日渐松弛,人们开始竞相追求款式新潮,材质华美的服饰;明中叶以来,服饰僭越现象愈发普遍,越来越多的商人穿上了儒生服饰,努力向社会主流群体靠拢。本文通过相关文献及图像材料分析,探究晚明商人服饰中的“尚儒”现象以及背后的原因。In the early Ming Dynasty,the government issued strict laws on the style,color,fabric and use of clothing,hoping to clarify the social class through clothing.Since the middle of the Ming Dynasty,the rapid development of commodity economy has laid the material foundation for the richness and development of clothing.The government's control over clothing is also increasingly relaxed,and people begin to compete for clothes with fashionable styles and beautiful materials.Since the middle of the Ming Dynasty,the arrogation of dress has become more and more common.More and more merchants wore Confucian clothes.Try to conform to the mainstream of society.Through the analysis of relevant literature and image materials,this paper explores the phenomenon of"Confucian"in the clothing of merchants in the late Ming Dynasty and the reasons behind it.

关 键 词：明中期 服饰 商人 儒生 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]