汉绣与荆楚刺绣关系考辨  

Research on the relationship between Han embroidery and Jingchu embroidery

作　　者：宋漫 刘安定 李斌 SONG Man;LIU Anding;LI Bin(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;Hubei Intangible Cultural Genetic Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学湖北省非物质文化遗产研究中心,武汉430073

出　　处：《丝绸》2023年第10期124-131,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：教育部中华优秀传统文化传承基地(汉绣)项目(HXJD2022A09)。

摘　　要：文章针对汉绣的起源及如何去界定汉绣等问题,运用文献资料与考古实物两维印证的方法对汉绣的起源问题进行分析,得出汉绣与荆楚刺绣有着密切联系的观点。研究表明:汉绣的纹样主题风格来源于楚国文化中尚巫信鬼的风俗习惯,是楚人风俗的具体表现;汉绣尚凤尚赤的特点是对楚人尚凤尚赤的继承,是楚人敬仰祖先、崇奉火与生的精神信仰的体现;汉绣的构图审美是楚人审美基因的延续,是楚人鬼魅浪漫的具象演绎。从历史发展的角度来看,汉绣针法技艺起源于春秋战国时期的楚国刺绣,后又在晚清时期为提高生产效率而创造出的一种新型商品绣。Embroidery is a traditional craft in China,where needles are used to create patterns on fabric by leaving colored threads on the surface.It is an ancient handicraft with a rich history in China.There are various types of embroidery in the country,including the“Four Famous Embroideries”and unique regional styles.Han embroidery is an important type of embroidery in the Jingchu region.However,it is not accurate to determine the origin of Han embroidery solely based on its geographical location or the name“Han embroidery”,whether it developed from Chu embroidery or originated in the Han Dynasty or the Jianghan region.To explore the relationship between Han embroidery and Jingchu embroidery from multiple perspectives,including culture,history,and embroidery techniques,we used a two-dimensional method based on literary materials and archaeological artifacts.On one hand,we delved into the cultural connotations behind the patterns and colors of Han embroidery,connecting it with Chu culture.Han embroidery exhibits a strong Chu-style witchcraft atmosphere in its patterns and colors,with mysterious and vivid designs that are adept at exaggeration and transformation.On the other hand,from the aspect of composition,Han embroidery is notably influenced by Chu-style aesthetics,demonstrating a distinct style compared to other types of embroidery.Furthermore,Han embroidery not only inherits the basic needlework from Chu embroidery but also elevates the“plain gold and interlining embroidery”as the prominent feature of modern commercial embroidery.Through commercial development in modern times,Han embroidery continuously improves production efficiency and evolves from complex handicraft techniques to commercial embroidery techniques.We conclude that the exploration of the patterns,colors,composition aesthetics,and needlework in Han embroidery leads to the understanding that Han embroidery and Jingchu embroidery have a close connection.The research indicates that:(i)the thematic style of Han embroidery originates from Ch

关 键 词：汉绣 楚国刺绣 艺术风格 针法 纹样 色彩 

分 类 号：TS935.1[轻工技术与工程]