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作 者:方娇娇 赵培宏 赵宜涛 邓书义 陈新[1] 曹红梅[2,3] FANG Jiaojiao;ZHAO Peihong;ZHAO Yitao;DENG Shuyi;CHEN Xin;CAO Hongmei(School of Pharmacy,Changzhou University,Changzhou 213164,China;Jiangsu Province Engineering Research Center of Special Functional Textile Materials,Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment,Changzhou 213164,China;Key Laboratory of Natural Dyes in the Textile Industry,Soochow University,Suzhou 215123,China)
机构地区:[1]常州大学药学院,江苏常州213164 [2]常州纺织服装职业技术学院,江苏省特种功能纺织材料工程研究中心,江苏常州213164 [3]苏州大学纺织行业天然染料重点实验室,江苏苏州215123
出 处:《现代纺织技术》2024年第6期1-8,共8页Advanced Textile Technology
基 金:常州市科技支撑计划项目(CE20225004);纺织行业天然染料重点实验室开放课题项目(SDHY2219);江苏高校“青蓝工程”优秀教学团队项目(苏教师函[2023]27号);常州纺织服装职业技术学院科技创新团队项目(CFTD202103)。
摘 要:为提高茶梗废弃物的利用率,从中提取天然色素用于蚕丝织物的染色和功能改性。采用LC-MS、FTIR以及UV对茶梗提取物进行结构鉴定及表征;探究染色时间、染色温度、染色pH值等工艺参数对染色蚕丝颜色性能的影响,比较铁观音茶梗、铁观音茶叶、高山绿茶的提取物对蚕丝织物的染色性能以及抗紫外、抗氧化性能差异。结果表明:该茶梗提取物主要成份为儿茶素,对蚕丝染色的最佳工艺条件为染色时间70 min、染色温度80℃、染色pH值为7.5;3种不同来源儿茶素染色性能相比,铁观音茶梗儿茶素染色蚕丝的表面得色量稍高,色牢度三者相当;3种儿茶素染色蚕丝的抗氧化和抗紫外性能较未处理蚕丝有大幅度提高,直接染色蚕丝的紫外防护系数UPF值均大于150,抗氧化活性均大于60%;采用铝离子前媒染后染色蚕丝的UPF值均大于230,抗氧化活性均大于70%,铁观音茶梗儿茶素染色蚕丝的抗紫外性能优于另外两种茶叶,抗氧化性能比绿茶低、与铁观音绿茶相当。As a major tea-producing country,China produces a huge amount of tea stems every year.In order to improve the current situation of tea stems being abandoned,increase the utilization of tea stems,and solve the waste of resources caused by discarded tea stems,the paper investigated the dyeing and function of tea stem pigments.In this paper,catechins were extracted from Tieguanyin tea stems,and LC-MS,UV-visible spectrophotometer,Fourier transform infrared and other instruments were used to identify and analyze the structure of the tea stem extract.Then,the extract was used to dye silk.The dyeing pH value,dyeing temperature and dyeing time were used as variables,and the Integ value of silk was used as an indicator to explore the optimal dyeing process.Finally,by using the best process for direct dyeing and Al 3+as a pre-mordant dyeing method,the Tieguanyin tea stem extract,Tieguanyin extract and Alpine green tea extract were used as dyes to compare the differences in color fastness and functional finishing for dyeing silk between the tea stem extract and tea leaf extracts.The results indicate that LC-MS characterization shows that the Tieguanyin tea stem extract has the same retention time and fragment ion peak as the catechin standard monomer.At the same time,the UV absorption spectrum shows that the extract has strong absorption at 280 nm and has structure of flavanols.The Fourier transform infrared spectrum also shows that the extract contains the same function group as catechins.Therefore,the main component of the Tieguanyin tea stem extract has been determined to be catechins.Under the condition that the catechins dye dosage is 10%(o.w.f)and the liquor ratio is 1∶50,the dyeing time is 70 minutes,the dyeing temperature is 80℃,and the dyeing pH value is 7.5,the Integ value of the silk can reach over 21.The color fastness of silk dyed with Tieguanyin tea stem catechins are the same as those dyed with Tieguanyin catechins and Alpine green tea catechins,which can meet the basic requirements of clothing.The UPF va
分 类 号:TS193.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程] TQ611[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]
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