Safe Retinol-Like Skin Biological Effect by a New Complex, Enriched with Retinol Precursors  

作　　者：Ze’evi Ma’or Dror Cohen Ya’ara La’or-Costa Meital Portugal-Cohen Ze’evi Ma’or;Dror Cohen;Ya’ara La’or-Costa;Meital Portugal-Cohen(Ahava Dead Sea Laboratories, Lod, Israel;The Skin Research Institute, the Dead-Sea and Arava Science Center, Masada, Israel)

机构地区：[1]Ahava Dead Sea Laboratories, Lod, Israel [2]The Skin Research Institute, the Dead-Sea and Arava Science Center, Masada, Israel

出　　处：《Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications》2020年第2期59-75,共17页化妆品、皮肤病及应用期刊（英文）

摘　　要：<strong>Background:</strong> Retinol (RE) is deeply involved in skin processes, therefore it is widely formulated in cosmetics, primarily as an anti-aging ingredient. Despite <span>its efficacy, the safety profile of RE is controversial. <b>Objectives:</b> Pretinol (PRE) complex was formulated with two RE precursors, <i>β</i>-Carotene and Niacinamide,</span><span> </span>in order to deliver retinol-like skin benefits with healthier characteristics, as<span>suming that skin enzymes will enable safe RE supply on spot. <b>Methods:</b> The expres</span><span>sion levels of hyaluronic acid, Tumor Necrosis Factor alpha (TNF<i>α</i>) and In</span><span>terleukin 1 alpha (IL-1<i>α</i>), were measured using various skin models before and</span><span> </span><span>after exposure to PRE and RE. Full genome microarray was performed and the</span> <span>affected genes and pathways were analyzed. <b>Results:</b> Following fibroblasts exposure to PRE, the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid is significantly elevated</span><span>.</span><span> </span><span>Skin safety, demonstrated via cytokines expression on <i>ex-vivo</i> skin, results with TNF<i>α</i> and IL-1<i>α</i> elevation by RE application. In contrary PRE significantly reduces</span> TNF<i>α</i> while IL-1<i>α</i> is not affected. These results establish skin safety advantage of PRE <i>vs</i> RE. Microarray results examined on skin equivalents reveal <span>the involvement of PRE in inflammatory attenuation. <b>Conclusions:</b> Formulat</span>ing RE precursors as a safe source for RE is partially supported. PRE presents a skin benefit in parallel to RE, while PRE characteristics are suggested to be safer to skin.<strong>Background:</strong> Retinol (RE) is deeply involved in skin processes, therefore it is widely formulated in cosmetics, primarily as an anti-aging ingredient. Despite <span>its efficacy, the safety profile of RE is controversial. <b>Objectives:</b> Pretinol (PRE) complex was formulated with two RE precursors, <i>β</i>-Carotene and Niacinamide,</span><span> </span>in order to deliver retinol-like skin benefits with healthier characteristics, as<span>suming that skin enzymes will enable safe RE supply on spot. <b>Methods:</b> The expres</span><span>sion levels of hyaluronic acid, Tumor Necrosis Factor alpha (TNF<i>α</i>) and In</span><span>terleukin 1 alpha (IL-1<i>α</i>), were measured using various skin models before and</span><span> </span><span>after exposure to PRE and RE. Full genome microarray was performed and the</span> <span>affected genes and pathways were analyzed. <b>Results:</b> Following fibroblasts exposure to PRE, the natural synthesis of hyaluronic acid is significantly elevated</span><span>.</span><span> </span><span>Skin safety, demonstrated via cytokines expression on <i>ex-vivo</i> skin, results with TNF<i>α</i> and IL-1<i>α</i> elevation by RE application. In contrary PRE significantly reduces</span> TNF<i>α</i> while IL-1<i>α</i> is not affected. These results establish skin safety advantage of PRE <i>vs</i> RE. Microarray results examined on skin equivalents reveal <span>the involvement of PRE in inflammatory attenuation. <b>Conclusions:</b> Formulat</span>ing RE precursors as a safe source for RE is partially supported. PRE presents a skin benefit in parallel to RE, while PRE characteristics are suggested to be safer to skin.

关 键 词：RETINOL Hyaluronic Acid Β-CAROTENE SKIN INFLAMMAGING IRRITATION 

分 类 号：R73[医药卫生—肿瘤]