海岸波浪场模型研究进展  

A REVIEW OF COASTAL WAVE MODELING

作　　者：黄虎[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]华东师范大学河口海岸国家重点实验室,上海200062 [2]上海大学,上海市应用数学和力学研究所,上海200072

出　　处：《力学进展》2001年第4期592-610,共19页Advances in Mechanics

基　　金：国家杰出青年科学基金(49825161);中国博士后科学基金;华东师范大学河口海岸国家重点实验室开放课题基金(200010)

摘　　要：从建模原理、波浪在近岸区域传播的众多机制、模型的类别、优势、局限性以及模型在未来的发展趋势等方面，综述了在海岸工程实践中广泛运用的以下两大类海岸波浪场预测模型的最新研究进展：（１）能量平衡模型．它一般用来预测海洋深水波候，已发展到相当完善的阶段，例如，最为著名的ＷＡＭ３Ｇ模型．这种模型在海岸工程中的作用就在于可以模拟施加在波浪上的随时间变化的风场效应．（２）质量、动量守恒模型．它在海岸工程中应用最为普遍，并且内容丰富，数值技巧多样．目前包含了以下代表性的模型：缓坡方程、抛物型方程、非线性浅水方程、高阶Ｂｏｕｓｓｉｎｅｓｑ型方程、Ｇｒｅｅｎ－Ｎａｇｈｄｉ理论．With respect to the modeling philosophy, merits, limitations, and trends, this paper provides a review of the state-of-the-art on the following two types of coastal wave prediction models that can be widely used in coastal engineering practice: (1) energy balance models , which are generally used for predicting the deep ocean wave climate and are quite established, such as the well-known model──WAM3G. The merit of these models is their ability to simulate the effects of timevarying windfield conditions on coastal waves. (2) mass and momentum conservation models, which are most widely used for coastal engineering, and stand out in their richness and variety of numerical techniques, including at present the following typical models: mild-slope equations; parabolic equations; nonlinear shallow-water equations; higher-order Boussinesq equations; the Green-Naghdi theory.

关 键 词：能量平衡模型 动量守恒模型 缓坡方程 浅水方程 BOUSSINESQ型方程 抛物型方程 海岸波浪场模型 近岸传播 海岸工程 风场 海岸工程 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学] O353[理学—流体力学]