旅游地特色饮食的地方化:丽江三文鱼的生产与消费  

The Taste of Place: Taking Lijiang Salmon as an Example to Analyze the Localization of Special Food in Tourism Destination

作　　者：孙九霞[1,2] 吴传龙[1] 凌玲[1] Sun Jiuxia;Wu Chuanlong;Ling Ling(School of Tourism Management, Center for Tourism, Leisure ＆ Social Development, Sun Yat-sen Universit)

机构地区：[1]中山大学旅游学院 [2]中山大学旅游休闲与社会发展研究中心

出　　处：《南开管理评论》2018年第2期182-191,共10页Nankai Business Review

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大项目(15ZDB118);国家自然科学基金项目(41771160;41701159)资助

摘　　要：饮食作为一种体验地方特色的途径,其地方性在"物的全球化"流动过程中受到巨大冲击。随着跨地方饮食与旅游饮食消费的兴起,饮食的地方性变得模糊,而丽江三文鱼则成功实现了从全球到地方饮食的身份转变,为旅游地特色饮食的地方化实践提供了新的思路。本文以丽江三文鱼的生产与消费为切入点,分析了丽江三文鱼地方饮食身份的建构过程与机制。研究发现,社会行动者在旅游地特色饮食的地方化实践中呈现动态性的嵌入过程,内外部主体在生产与消费过程中互动,最终实现了饮食的地方性生产。丽江三文鱼的地方性,不仅是通过生产与消费互动而营造出的与丽江地域特征、旅游文化、社会经济等联结的符号表征,更是一种来源于多元主体的情感认同。在生产实践中,三文鱼产业建立起与丽江地域特征的联结,进而在企业家精神的驱动下,原材料供应商成功转型为餐饮企业,成为三文鱼地方化的基础;在消费实践中,通过饮食方式的在地化改造,丽江三文鱼实现了内在形象与旅游文化的统一,作为一种地方符号被传播、展示、消费、认可,并引导生产,最终推动社区内部由"他者凝视"转向"我者认同"。本研究丰富了旅游对地方性的影响研究,深化了全球化背景下对地方的认识与理解,同时对旅游饮食开发实践具有指导性作用。As a way to experience place, the placeness of food has been challenging in the process of globalization. Especially with the rise of translocal food and tourism food consumption, the placeness of local food has become increasingly blurred. The case of Lijiang Salmon, which has successfully achieved the transformation from translocal food to local（Lijiang） food, has provided a new approach for the localization practice of special food in tourism destination. This study tries to analyze the construction and mechanism of the local identity of Lijiang salmon from the perspective of the production and consumption of the special food in tourism destination. Based on data collection methods such as in-depth interview and observation, 46 interview samples and 5 observation reports were obtained. With qualitative analysis methods, this research finds that social actors dynamically embedded in the localization practice of special food in tourism destination. The placeness of Lijiang salmon is not only a symbolic representation created under the interaction of production and consumption, showing its connections to the regional characteristic, tourism culture and social economy of Lijiang, but also a sentimental identification of multiple subjects. For production, the salmon industry created the connection of the food to the local characteristics of Lijiang. Driven by the entrepreneurial spirit, raw materials suppliers successfully transformed into catering enterprises, which laid foundation for the localization of salmon. For consumption, transformation of localization kept Lijiang salmon＇s food image in consistency with the tourism culture. As a result, the salmon itself was displayed and consumed as a symbol of Lijiang, which eventually became the placeness of local community rather than the gaze of others. This study enriches the research on the impacts of tourism industry on destinations, deepens the understanding of placeness in the context of globalization, and plays a guiding role in the practice of tourism fo

关 键 词：旅游饮食 地方性生产 嵌入与脱嵌 丽江 三文鱼 

分 类 号：F592.7[经济管理—旅游管理] F719.3[经济管理—产业经济]