“中华菜谱学”视阈下的“中国菜”——2018郑州·向世界发布中国菜活动主题演讲  

“Chinese Cuisine” in Scholarly View of Chinese Cookbook——Keynote Speech at the “Chinese Cuisine” Release to the World’ Event,Zhengzhou,2018

作　　者：赵荣光[1] ZHAO Rongguang(Chinese Culinary Culture Institute,Zhejiang Gongshang University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang Province 310012)

机构地区：[1]浙江工商大学中国饮食文化研究所

出　　处：《楚雄师范学院学报》2020年第1期1-5,共5页Journal of Chuxiong Normal University

摘　　要：本文是中国烹饪协会于2018年在郑州举办的"向世界发布中国菜"活动的特邀主题演讲。文章强调"中国菜""菜谱学""中华菜谱学"等基本专业术语对于餐饮文化健康发展与烹饪学科规范建设的重要意义,主张大众和大趋势是中国菜品文化研究明确的理念和理论基点。袁枚的《随园食单》和杨步伟的《中国食谱》分别是中国古代与现代"菜谱"的经典范本。以"中华菜谱学"的理论视角审视"中国菜",城市是菜品文化的地域依托,任何一座有深厚历史文化积淀的中心城市,都有相应发展或发达的餐饮与烹饪文化,该中心城市辐射的周边地区会与其自然而然地形成地域菜品文化覆盖的"饮食文化圈"。"以省市名菜"有族群食生产、食生活的历史依据,是市场存在与商业运行的客观存在,有从大众到政府的全社会需求,因此"以省市名菜"--甚至更小的区域与城市,都普遍有各自的"菜品文化"张扬与发展意愿,是"以地名菜"基本理论的必然外延。This article was delivered as a keynote speech at the conference themed ‘Chinese Cuisine Release to the World’in Zhengzhou in 2018 organized by the Chinese Cuisine Association. It highlights some terms,such as Chinese Cuisine,Scholarly Area of Cookbook and Studies of Chinese Cookbook,so as to emphasize their importance to the development of the catering culture and construction of culinary art as a discipline. It stands on the point that research on the Chinese cuisine should meet the needs of the public,and be adapted to the general trends. It points out that Yuan Mei’s Suiyuan Shidan and Buwei Chao-Yang’s How to Cook and Eat in Chinese are the most classic Chinese cookbooks for the ancient and modern times respectively. By inspecting the Chinese Cuisine in scholarly view of Chinese Cookbook,it is found that city is the foundation of the culinary culture. That means any central city with a historical heritage must have its specific culinary and catering culture;its surrounding areas will naturally be influenced and a food culture circle be formed that covers local dishes. Therefore,those renowned dishes named after provinces or cities have historical origins in food production and consumption,meet the market demand and benefit both the public and the government. Even a small area and a minor city can have their special cuisine. It follows,displays and develops the law of "naming dishes after places."

关 键 词：中国菜 菜谱学 中华菜谱学 《随园食单》 《中国食谱》 

分 类 号：TS972.182[轻工技术与工程]