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作 者:孟令军 MENG Lingjun(School of Humanities of Huzhou Normal University,Huzhou,Zhejiang 313000,China)
出 处:《美食研究》2022年第4期9-14,共6页Journal of Researches on Dietetic Science and Culture
基 金:国家社科基金一般项目(21BZW003)。
摘 要:袁枚编写的《随园食单》记录了不同食材的制作方式。它不仅是一部美味食谱,而且还蕴含着丰富的饮食文化美学思想。袁枚不仅注重食物饱腹的实用性功能,更看重饮食中的文化内涵,追求高雅的饮食生活情趣。他的诗学观念和美食态度呈现出互文阐释的特性:在诗学上他追求性灵,诗歌要情真意切,表现在饮食上则是对食物本性和食其本味的重视;在诗文表达上他注重识、才、学的结合,体现在饮食上则是对色、香、味俱全的强调;在诗文创作中他主张不拘泥于定法和范式,反映在饮食上则是和而不同的饮食理念。此外,在诗歌方面他讲求意蕴无穷的含蓄美学风格,体现在饮食美学上则是对美食本味与回味的追求。Yuan Mei’s Suiyuan Shidan(Suiyuan Food Menu)recorded the preparation of different food materials.It is not only a delicacy recipe,but also contained rich aesthetic ideas of food culture.Yuan Mei payed attention to not only the practical satiety function,but also the cultural connotation of food,and pursued the taste of elegant food life.His poetic concept and food attitude showed the characteristics of intertextual interpretation.In poetics,he pursued spirituality:poetry must be true and sincere,reflecting the importance and taste in food;in poetic expression,he paid attention to the combination of knowledge,talent and learning,reflecting the emphasis of color,aroma and taste in food.In the creation of poetry and prose,he advocated not to be confined to the law and paradigm,and reflected in the diet is the food concept of harmony but different.In addition,in the aspect of poetry,he emphasized the implicit aesthetic style with infinite implications,which was reflected in the pursuit of the original taste and aftertaste of delicious food.
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