酸臭为佳:明清以来贵州[酉音]菜的开发利用  

Sour and stink,good taste:development and utilization of yìn dishes since Ming and Qing Dynasties in Guizhou

作　　者：严奇岩[1] YAN Qiyan(School of History and Politics/Institute for Ecological Civilization of Karst Area,Guizhou Normal University,Guiyang,Guizhou 550025,China)

机构地区：[1]贵州师范大学历史与政治学院/喀斯特生态文明研究中心,贵州贵阳550025

出　　处：《美食研究》2023年第3期1-7,共7页Journal of Researches on Dietetic Science and Culture

基　　金：国家社科基金重点项目(19AZD034);贵州省教育厅人文社科基地项目(23RWJD058)。

摘　　要：由于历史上缺盐以及受“天无三日晴、地无三里平、人无三分银”的“三无”环境影响,贵州成为我国典型的酸食区,但贵州酸食文化不为学界所关注。[酉音]菜包括素[酉音]菜、荤[酉音]菜和酸汤,以酸臭为佳,成为贵州酸食之魂。[酉音]菜是贵州百姓日常饮食的必需品,一度成为家庭财富的主要标志。历史文献中主要记载黑苗和仲家两个族群嗜好[酉音]菜,清代以来,[酉音]菜被其他民族仿效,包括汉族在内的贵州各民族都有喜食[酉音]菜的习俗,形成今天黔人嗜酸的基本特点。Due to the lack of salt in history and the environmental impact of“three deficiencies”,namely,sunniness less than three days,flatten land less than three miles,and asset less than three cents,Guizhou has become a typical area of sour food in China,but the sour food culture in Guizhou has not been concerned by the academic community.yìn[酉音]dishes include vegetable and meat dishes and sour soups.Sour and stink were the soul of sour food in Guizhou.yìn dishes are the daily necessities of Guizhou people’s diet and once became the main symbol of family wealth.Historical documents mainly record two ethnic groups,the Black Miao and Zhong Jia,favoring yìn dishes.Since the Qing Dynasty,yìn cuisine has been imitated by other ethnic groups.All ethnic groups in Guizhou,including the Han,have the customs of eating yìn cuisine,which formed the basic acidophilia characteristics of people in Guizhou today.

关 键 词：黔菜 [酉音]菜 酸臭为佳 民族饮食 开发利用 

分 类 号：TS972.182.73[轻工技术与工程]