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作 者:陈江燕 顾庆慧 罗兰 李亚 田云才 田勇 张文环 赵鑫 吴明一[2] CHEN Jiangyan;GU Qinghui;LUO Lan;LI Ya;TIAN Yuncai;TIAN Yong;ZHANG Wenhuan;ZHAO Xin;WU Mingyi(School of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Yunnan Key Laboratory of Pharmacology for Natural Products,Kunming Medical University,Kunming 650500,China;State Key Laboratory of Phytochemistry and Plant Resources in West China,Kunming Institute of Botany,Chinese Academy of Sciences,Kunming 650201,China;Shanghai Zhi Zhen Zhi Chen Technology Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 200200,China;Shanghai A&H International Cosmetics Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201400,China)
机构地区:[1]昆明医科大学药学院暨云南省天然药物药理重点实验室,昆明650500 [2]中国科学院昆明植物研究所植物化学与西部植物资源持续利用国家重点实验室,昆明650201 [3]上海致臻志臣科技有限公司,上海200200 [4]上海臻臣化妆品有限公司,上海201400
出 处:《中国油脂》2025年第2期108-113,120,共7页China Oils and Fats
基 金:云南省基础研究专项——杰出青年项目(202301AV070008)。
摘 要:为了评价美藤果油、牡丹籽油和青刺果油的品质及其开发为功效性护肤品的应用价值,对其品质指标、抗氧化及防紫外线活性进行比较分析。结果表明:3种木本植物油的酸值、碘值与不饱和脂肪酸含量差别较大,其中美藤果油的酸值最低,而其碘值、多不饱和脂肪酸含量和总多酚含量最高(分别达181.32g/100g、88.78%和70.29mg/100g);3种植物油的DPPH自由基清除能力顺序为美藤果油>牡丹籽油>青刺果油,且美藤果油的DPPH自由基清除能力强于维生素E的;3种植物油均具有一定的防紫外线活性,其中美藤果油的紫外吸收能力最强,美藤果油和牡丹籽油对UVB照射后的人角质形成细胞(HaCaT细胞)保护能力及防护其DNA损伤效果较优。综上,美藤果油的品质最优,抗氧化和防紫外线活性最强,可以用于抗氧化及防晒系列功效性护肤品的开发。In order to evaluate the qualities of three woody plant oils(Plukenetia volubilis oil,Paeonia suffruticosa seed oil and Prinsepia utilis oil)and their potential to be effective skin care product,their quality indexes,antioxidant and anti-UV activities were studied and compared.The results showed that their acid value,iodine value and unsaturated fatty acid content had great difference,among which the acid value of P.volubilis oil was the lowest,while its iodine value,polyunsaturated fatty acid content and total polyphenol content were the highest(up to 181.32 g/100 g,88.78% and 70.29 mg/100 g,respectively).The scavenging ability of DPPH free radicals was ranked as P.volubilis oil>P.suffruticosa seed oil>P.utilis oil,and the antioxidant ability of P.volubilis oil in DPPH free radicals scavenging was better than that of vitamin E.All three plant oils had certain anti-UV activities,among which the UV absorption capacity of P.volubilis oil was the strongest,and P.volubilis oil and P.suffruticosa seed oil were more effective in the protection of human 108 CHINA OILS AND FATS 2025 Vol50 No2keratinocytes(HaCaT)and the protection of their DNA damage after UVB irradiation.In conclusion,P.volubilis oil has the best quality and the strongest antioxidant and anti-UV activities,and can be used in the development of antioxidant and sunscreen series of efficacious skin care products.
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