当代中国美食旅游中的品味、知识与阶层——基于香格里拉葡萄酒游学活动的考察  

Taste,knowledge,and social ranks in contemporary food tourism in China-A study based on Shangri-La wine tour

作　　者：肖坤冰[1] XIAO Kunbing(School of Ethnology and Sociology,Southwest Minzu University,Chengdu,Sichuan 610041,China)

机构地区：[1]西南民族大学民族学与社会学学院,四川成都610041

出　　处：《美食研究》2022年第4期22-30,共9页Journal of Researches on Dietetic Science and Culture

基　　金：西南民族大学民族学一级学科建设项目(0304m2X-2021);国家留学基金委2021访问学者项目(202108515037)。

摘　　要：随着中国由葡萄酒消费大国向葡萄酒生产大国转变,葡萄酒产区游学成为近年来国内美食旅游中的新潮流。葡萄酒学院通过语言的“神话修辞术”和对各种社会资源的整合,将原本欠缺文化的葡萄酒消费“升级”为具有“文化资本”吸引力的美食教育。在香格里拉的葡萄酒游学过程中,法国天主教的酿酒传统、波尔多的葡萄酒交易体系以及云南迪庆州的藏传佛教和少数民族特色随着资本的全球流动,被巧妙地编织进葡萄酒这一“文化商品”中。“学员”们在分享葡萄酒的同时,也在分享着“滋味”背后的知识、趣味、特权与区隔。“葡萄酒游学”俨然正在成为建构新的文化精英阶层身份认同的标识。With the transformation of China from a wine consumption country to a wine production country,study tours in wine production regions have become a new trend in domestic food tourism in recent years.Through the integration of lingual“myth rhetoric”and various social resources,the wine school“upgrades”the wine consumption originally lacking in culture into the food education with the attraction of“cultural capital”.During the wine tour in Shangri-La,the wine-brewing tradition of French Catholicism,the wine trading system of Bordeaux,the Tibetan Buddhism of Deqen and the characteristics of ethnic minorities were cleverly woven into the“cultural commodity”of wine along with the global flow of capital.While sharing the wine,the students are also sharing the knowledge,interest,privilege and distinction behind the taste.“Wine tour”is becoming a symbol to construct the identity of the new cultural elites.

关 键 词：美食旅游 香格里拉 葡萄酒 游学 文化资本 

分 类 号：TS97[轻工技术与工程]