financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.51879033)
The swashing motion on mild beach slope is dominated by the motion of low frequency waves (LFWs). Companying such a motion, there are two types of swashing motion states, occurrence or no occurrence of LFW’s collisio...
financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51879237 and 11602222);the Research Fund of Zhejiang Ocean University(Grant No.11185010817);Zhejiang Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.LR16E090002);the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(Grant No.2018QNA4041);the Project of Research on structure properties of framed seawall along the Oujiang River in Lucheng District of Wenzhou City
Longshore current instability is important to nearshore hydrodynamic and sediment transport. This paper investigates the longshore current instability growth model based experimental data with different velocity profi...
financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.50479053 and 11272078);the Funds for Creative Research Groups of China(Grant No.51221961)
The laboratory experiment and numerical simulations of wave-driven longshore currents by random waves on barred beaches with slopes of 1:100 and 1:40 were conducted to investigate the bimodal feature of mean longsho...
financially supported by the National Nature Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.51109032 and 11172058);A Foundation for the Author of National Excellent Doctoral Dissertation of PR China(FANEDD,Grant No.201347)
This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope (1:40). Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this ...
supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.50479053and10672034);the Program for Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin University,and thefoundationfordoctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China
New hyperbolic mild slope equations for random waves are developed with the inclusion of amplitude dispersion. The frequency perturbation around the peak frequency of random waves is adopted to extend the equations fo...
the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .50479053 and10672034);the Programfor Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin University;the foundation for doctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China
A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed...
A numerical model for wave propagation in a harbour is verified by use of physical models. The extended time-dependent mild slope equation is employed as the governing equation, and the model is solved by use of ADI m...
The long-shore current distribution on a mild slope beach is studied by combining the numerical model and the physical experiment. The experiments of long-shore currents under the action of regular and irregular waves...
Based on the mild slope equation that has heen deeomposed inlo three equations related to wave phase function, wave amplitude and wave approach angle, a refraction-diffraction model is developed. The finite difference...
This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.59839330 and No.19772031)
The 'surface roller' to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transport...